The following is information on hair removal methods, and comparisons between them.
Hair grows from deep within the skin, in the subcutis. The hair follicle at this point contains the matrix which grows through the skin layers (dermis and epidermis) before erupting through the surface.
Hair has three stages of growth, active growth (anagen), resting (telogen), and shedding (catagen). The hair follicle can only be killed during the anagen phase, and it is not possible to tell which phase a hair was at until after it is removed.
The male face contains around 250 hair follicles per centimeter square, so there are literally tens of thousands of hair follicles. At any one time about 50% of the follicles are in the anagen phase, and it lasts for between 8 and 12 weeks. So to remove all hair efficiently it would be preferable to have a total clearance every 10 weeks. The numbers of hair follicles would reduce each time.
Note the times shown above depend on where on the body the hair is growing, and can also vary between individuals. For example the hair on the top of ones head is in the anagen phase for 2-4 years, the telogen phase for 90-120 days, and catagen phase for 15-20 days.
Temporary methods such as waxing and plucking will seem like they limit hair growth, however all that has happened is that you are reducing the number of hairs visible at any one time to those that are either in the anagen or telogen phase.
Many factors will inhibit the growth of male terminal hair. They include the use of hormonal creams such as Vaniqua and T blockers such as spironolactone or cypoterone acetate. These inhibitors react with the hair follicle to reduce the effect of androgens in promoting hair growth.
They can work well to inhibit hair growth, but will not kill the hair follicles. Once the medication is stopped the hair follicles will continue growth, so medication must be continuous.
The inhibiting effect of T blockers is why laser hair removal systems seem to work very well for transitioning MtF clients. However if the T blockers are stopped after GRS the levels of free testosterone can increase to a point where hair follicles are again able to grow.
There have been a number of different lasers used over the years but all work on the same principle. Light at a specified wavelength is delivered from a handpiece into the skin, where it targets dark pigment in the hair follicle. This is intended to cause thermal damage to a hair follicle while sparing surrounding tissues by heating the follicle.
Some consumers have experienced permanent hair reduction, but there is limited data on how long hair reduction usually lasts, how much hair reduction is typical, and how often permanent hair reduction occurs.
It is considered safe if performed properly, and useful for large areas such as backs or legs. Regrowth can come back lighter in color or finer in texture. Light-skinned consumers with dark hair have the best results. Gray and light coloured hairs are unlikely to be killed. One of the main advantages is that this system can be used while keeping a shaved face. It must be used very cautiously (if at all) on darker skin tones or on consumers who tan themselves. Improper treatment can cause burns, lesions, skin discoloration lasting several months.
Recent data suggest other skin structures are often affected by laser irradiation, and long term effects of this constitute an unknown risk.
This is very similar to laser, but uses full spectrum (non-coherent) light and low-range infrared radiation which are filtered to allow a specified range of wavelengths delivered from a handpiece into the skin. Advantages and disadvantages are similar to the laser, but there is less clinical data available to determine its effectiveness compared to other methods. The handpiece tends to use a rectangular block of light, rather than the round or elliptical spot typical for lasers.
Electrical currents are applied by inserting a very thin probe into the hair follicle. There are two types of current employed, and sometimes these can be used together in what is called the “blend method”.
A Direct Current applied to the hair follicle causes a chemical reaction. Sodium hydroxide (lye, highly alkaline) is formed and this dissolves the hair follicle. Typically this may take around 15 seconds to occur.
An alternating current can be increased in the frequency of oscillations and this is called High Frequency current. When applied to the hair follicle through the probe it causes the follicle and surrounding tissue to heat resulting in the follicle being killed. Typically this may take around 10 seconds to occur.
In the blend method the DC is applied for a few seconds, followed by around 5 seconds where the HF current is overlaid, then another few seconds of DC alone. This has the effect of heating the lye and causing it to be both more reactive and also forcing it into the hair follicle rather like the action of steam. Typically this may take around 10 seconds to occur, and is more effective than either of the standard currents alone.
Electrolysis has by far the best and longest track record of results for permanent hair removal, with over 125 years of clinically proven safety and effectiveness. However this method can be expensive, painful and if done improperly, it can result in skin damage. Also the hair must be grown to around 3mm length (3-5 days) to allow its removal.
More recently the HF current has been altered to provide a new system known as flash thermolysis. In this method a very high power HF current is applied for only a fraction of a second. Typically this may be in the range of 1 or 2 “zaps” each of less than 1/10 of a second.
Because of the extremely short duration and high power these machines are a lot more automated than the standard electrolysis machines, and provide considerably more control over the currents applied.
The major benefit of the system is speed, where the removal rate is about 3 times faster than the blend methods. It also is slightly less painful, with the “zap” feeling like a little sting rather than the burning sensation of the blend method. Long appointments can be made where local anesthesia can be arranged to provide a more comfortable provision of total clearance of an area.
This has been used to great effect overseas to provide total clearance of facial hair in one visit. Subsequent visits are spread out about every 3 months and reducing in the number of hours required for clearance.
Typically the initial clearance may require around 20 hours of treatment, with around 7 or 8 visits culminating in around 2 hours for a final clearance. Typical reports are that around 100 hours of treatment gives total and permanent hair removal for the full face.
This treatment (using extended sessions of up to 3 full days) is not yet available in New Zealand, however the equipment is now available and the clearance rates for a 2 hour appointment are pretty amazing.
Results in terms of facial appearance? Don't be surprised if you look like you've had the pox for a week after the intensive treatment, but should reduce to a look like old acne by the end of the second week and was easily hidden by foundation.